FROM THE SUITCASE--Oliha Yiwama

Oliha's been on the phone, but his Internet cafe contact has been sparse. Still, he's been spending jam-packed days and nights researching, socializing, buying, and photographing! We shall all enjoy the fruits of his trip.

So, as we wait, I'll combine his reports with some of my reminiscences. Right now he's in Nigeria's Benin City, my main stomping grounds as well. He toured the palace this past week--Benin traditionally is ruled by an Oba (king) assisted by over 300 chiefs. Although the ancient kingdom is under the federal and Edo state governments, the Oba still exercises a lot of influence and continues to promote Benin nationally and internationally. Oba Erediauwa is a Cambridge-educated lawyer and footballer, and his chiefs run the gamut of backgrounds--some are international businessmen, some retired military or judicial officials, some professors, pharmacists, doctors, diviners, artists, blacksmiths, traditional physicians, and more.

While the chiefs may be found in suits, traditional attire or informal wear at home or when out and about, their palace dress is extremely formal and codified. Chiefs are not all created equal, and their dressing privileges are awarded when they get their title. Most important are their coral beads, Benin's most valuable jewelry. Their red color symbolizes power, forcefulness and might. The white that dominates much of the court dress stands for peace, prosperity, and purity.

--Tamsin Barzane, standing in for Oliha